Table of Contents

	Introduction
	Planning your trip
	Route planning	p. 11
	When to go
	Climate	p. 14
	Festivals and events	p. 15
	Costs	p. 17
	Getting there
	From within North America	p. 18
	From Britain and Europe	p. 18
	From Asia	p. 19
	From Australasia	p. 19
	Getting around
	By car	p. 20
	By RV	p. 21
	By bus	p. 21
	By train	p. 22
	By paddlesteamer	p. 22
	Information for non-US visitors	p. 23
	Louisiana
	New Orleans
	History	p. 25
	Jazz history	p. 27
	Arrival and departure	p. 30
	Orientation	p. 32
	Getting around	p. 33
	Services	p. 41
	What to see
	Jazz landmarks	p. 42
	Other highlights	p. 44
	Where to stay
	Budget options	p. 47
	In the French quarter	p. 48
	Where to eat	p. 51
	Where to find live music	p. 54
	New Orleans to Baton Rouge	p. 57
	Baton Rouge
	History	p. 57
	Arrival and departure	p. 58
	Orientation	p. 58
	Getting around	p. 58
	Services	p. 59
	What to see	p. 62
	Where to stay	p. 62
	Where to eat	p. 63
	Where to find live music	p. 64
	Baton Rouge to Lafayette	p. 66
	Lafayette
	History of Lafayette and Acadiana	p. 67
	Cajun and zydeco music	p. 69
	Arrival and departure	p. 68
	Orientation	p. 70
	Getting around	p. 70
	Services	p. 73
	What to see	p. 73
	Where to stay	p. 74
	Where to eat	p. 75
	Where to find live music	p. 76
	Mississippi
	Lafayette and Baton Rouge to Natchez (Mississippi)	p. 79
	Delta Blues	p. 80
	Natchez
	History	p. 81
	Arrival and departure	p. 82
	Orientation	p. 82
	Getting around	p. 82
	Services	p. 82
	What to see	p. 84
	Where to stay	p. 85
	Where to eat	p. 86
	Where to find live music	p. 87
	Natchez to Port Gibson to Vicksburg	p. 87
	Vicksburg
	History	p. 88
	Music history	p. 88
	Arrival and departure	p. 89
	Getting around	p. 89
	Services	p. 89
	What to see
	Music landmarks	p. 90
	Other highlights	p. 92
	Where to stay	p. 92
	Where to eat	p. 94
	Where to find live music	p. 94
	Vicksburg to Jackson	p. 95
	Jackson
	History	p. 95
	Blues history	p. 96
	Arrival and departure	p. 96
	Orientation	p. 97
	Getting around	p. 97
	Services	p. 97
	What to see
	Blues landmarks	p. 100
	Other highlights	p. 102
	Where to stay	p. 103
	Where to eat	p. 104
	Where to find live music	p. 105
	Deep Delta
	Greenwood to Avalon	p. 107
	Robert Johnson's graves	p. 107
	'Where the Southern cross the dog'	p. 109
	Indianola and BB King	p. 109
	Holly Ridge and Charley Patton	p. 111
	Leland	p. 112
	Greenville
	History	p. 113
	Arrival and departure	p. 113
	Orientation	p. 114
	Getting around	p. 114
	Services	p. 114
	What to see	p. 116
	Where to stay	p. 117
	Where to eat	p. 117
	Where to find live music	p. 118
	Greenville to Cleveland	p. 119
	Cleveland
	History	p. 119
	Blues history	p. 119
	Arrival, departure and getting around	p. 120
	Orientation	p. 120
	Services	p. 120
	What to see	p. 122
	Where to stay	p. 124
	Where to eat	p. 125
	Where to find live music	p. 125
	Cleveland to Clarksdale	p. 126
	Clarksdale
	History	p. 127
	Blues history	p. 127
	Arrival, departure and getting around	p. 127
	Orientation	p. 127
	Services	p. 128
	What to see	p. 128
	Where to stay	p. 133
	Where to eat	p. 133
	Where to find live music	p. 134
	Clarksdale to Helena [Arkansas]	p. 135
	Helena [Arkansas] to Tunica to Memphis [Tennessee]	p. 135
	Tennessee
	Memphis
	History	p. 137
	Blues, rock & roll and soul history	p. 138
	Arrival and departure	p. 140
	Orientation	p. 140
	Getting around	p. 141
	Services	p. 142
	What to see
	Music landmarks	p. 145
	Other highlights	p. 152
	Where to stay	p. 153
	Where to eat	p. 154
	Where to find live music	p. 156
	Memphis to Nashville	p. 160
	Nashville
	History	p. 161
	Music history	p. 162
	Arrival and departure	p. 162
	Orientation	p. 163
	Getting around	p. 163
	Services	p. 164
	What to see
	Music landmarks	p. 166
	Other highlights	p. 169
	Where to stay	p. 170
	Where to eat	p. 172
	Where to find live music	p. 173
	Nashville to Memphis to Arkansas	p. 176
	Arkansas
	Nelena
	History	p. 177
	Blues history	p. 178
	Arrival, departure and getting around	p. 178
	Orientation	p. 178
	Services	p. 178
	What to see	p. 180
	Where to stay	p. 181
	Where to eat	p. 181
	Where to find live music	p. 182
	Memphis to Blytheville	p. 182
	Blytheville	p. 183
	Blytheville to New Madrid [Missouri]	p. 184
	Missouri
	New Madrid	p. 185
	Cape Girardeau
	Orientation	p. 186
	Services	p. 186
	What to see	p. 188
	Where to stay	p. 188
	Where to eat	p. 189
	Where to find live music	p. 189
	Cape Girardeau to Ste Genevieve	p. 189
	Ste Genevieve	p. 189
	Ste Genevieve to St Louis	p. 191
	St Louis
	History	p. 191
	Music history	p. 192
	Arrival and departure	p. 196
	Orientation	p. 198
	Getting around	p. 198
	Services	p. 200
	What to see
	Music land marks	p. 202
	Other highlights	p. 203
	Where to stay	p. 204
	Where to eat	p. 207
	Where to find live music	p. 209
	St Louis to Hannibal	p. 212
	Hannibal
	Orientation	p. 212
	Services	p. 214
	What to see	p. 214
	Where to stay	p. 214
	Where to eat	p. 215
	Hannibal to Keokuk and Fort Madison [Iowa]	p. 216
	Iowa
	Keokuk	p. 217
	Fort Madison	p. 218
	Keokuk and Fort Madison to Burlington	p. 220
	Burlington	p. 220
	Burlington to Muscatine	p. 222
	Muscatine	p. 222
	Muscatine to Davenport	p. 224
	Davenport and the Quad cities
	History	p. 224
	Jazz history	p. 225
	Arrival and departure	p. 226
	Orientation	p. 226
	Getting around	p. 230
	Services	p. 232
	What to see
	Jazz landmarks	p. 232
	Other highlights	p. 233
	Where to stay	p. 236
	Where to eat	p. 238
	Where to find live music	p. 239
	Illinois
	Davenport [Quad cities] to Chicago [Illinois]	p. 241
	Chicago
	History	p. 242
	Jazz, blues and gospel history	p. 244
	Arrival and departure	p. 256
	Orientation	p. 257
	Getting around	p. 258
	Services	p. 259
	What to see
	Highlights	p. 260
	Music landmarks	p. 263
	Where to stay	p. 267
	Where to eat	p. 269
	Where to find live music	p. 271
	Who's who of Blues Highway musicians	p. 278